Description

This Uzbek silk ikat robe dates to the later part of the 19th century.

Its relatively small size with an overall width of 140 cm from cuff to cuff as well as the shape of the tailoring make this a young woman’s coat, or munisak. It might even have been made for an older child. The bias cut triangular panel that has been added under the sleeve to create the outline of a fan has a silk embroidery detail decorating the area at the top of the triangle.

The robe has a great range of colours, including two shades of green. It is lined with a Russian printed cotton fabric with an all over floral design and edged with bias cut striped cotton (see additional image). It is lightly quilted.

The warp faced ikat weave is worked in silk for the warp and cotton for the weft. This combination is commonly called adras. At roughly 38 cm width for the central panel on the back, the adras used for this robe is within the range of loom widths used in the production of this material, which were typically between 25 and 50 cm (see also Sumru Belger Krody, Colors of the Oasis. Central Asian Ikats. Washington, The textile Museum 2010, page 24).

The robe is slightly stained but is overall in very good condition.